[0058] 瑪黛茶的歷史 - 瑪黛茶與耶穌會 Yerba mate and the Jesuits

如果你還記得聯考考過的歷史，那一定會記得遠從歐洲來到中國的義大利傳教士利瑪竇，之後被清朝順治康熙皇帝重用的湯若望和南懷仁，他們都是耶穌會的成員。

如果聯考已經太遠，那麼神劍闖江湖的島原之亂篇，救世主天草翔伍是日本少數的天主教徒，如果沒有耶穌會的出現，也不會有這一段歷史的痕跡，緋村劍心也不用跟他打一架。

耶穌會的足跡遍及了亞洲跟美洲新大陸，對各地的歷史進程都有相當多的影響，其中跟瑪黛茶也有相當密不可分的關連。

耶穌會曾經強力抵制瑪黛茶，但是最後不僅以失敗告終，甚至還造成了消費市場的大幅度增加。

但它卻也是第一個成功地建立了人工栽植的瑪黛茶樹園，成了這產業的最大的推手，間接的讓南美洲的瑪黛茶市場有了爆炸性的成長。

圖為耶穌會的標誌，充滿華麗的風格
CC授權圖片來源 http://www.flickr.com/photos/pelegrino/344701858/

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（為了文章通順，沒有逐字翻譯。如果有翻錯要跟我說耶。）

excerpt from Ross W. Jamieson's The Essence of Commodification: Caffeine dependencies in the early modern world. Journal of Social History, Winter 2001

Yerba mate and the Jesuits

瑪黛茶與耶穌會

Not all the caffeine drinks encountered in the course of European colonial expansion came to be accepted for consumption in Europe. In the Americas there were several plants besides cacao that contained caffeine and were known to the indigenous inhabitants, none of which ever reached commercial distribution in Europe. The most economically important of these exclusively New World caffeine drinks was yerba mate. This is a tea made from the leaves of a holly (Ilex paraguariensis) harvested in prehispanic times along the Parana-Paraguay river system.

並非所有的咖啡因飲料都跟著海權時代的殖民擴張而進入了歐洲的消費市場，大部分在美洲所發現的含咖啡因農作物並沒有在歐洲達到商業規模。而這些與歐洲無緣的植物，其中在經濟上最為重要的新大陸產品就是瑪黛茶。

在西班牙人還沒有抵達巴拉那河流域以前，瑪黛茶已經被原住民所開採並且飲用，它是從一種神聖的樹葉所泡製而成的茶飲，

（巴拉那河是南美洲第二大河，南美第一大河是亞馬遜河。）

Early Spanish settlers along this river system had taken up the pre-Columbian practice of drinking wild yerba mate as a tea. As with cacao, they acquired the habit from the people they had conquered. Unlike cacao and coffee, yerba mate was not a domestic plant when first encountered by Europeans. Instead it was harvested from wild stands. Initial Spanish colonization of the Parana-Paraguay system was tied closely to Jesuit missionization efforts.

Jesuit policy encouraged large-scale plantation agriculture on the seventeenth century South American missions, as a method of using indigenous labor to produce marketable commodities, and make the missions both self-sufficient and profitable. The Jesuits realized the great economic potential of yerba mate, and from the 1650s to 1670s successfully founded yerba mate plantations at their missions.

在巴拉那河流域的早期西班牙移民，將這野生的巴拉圭茶(瑪黛茶)當作平日飲用的茶水。就如同可可豆一樣，他們從這些被征服的原住民身上學習到了這些日常生活習慣。但是不同於可可跟咖啡這些已經被廣泛種植的農作物，瑪黛茶的來源仍然是來自於野生的茶樹。

早期在巴拉那河流域的移民和當時的耶穌會有相當緊密的關連。在十七世紀，當時的耶穌會的政策就是積極的在南美洲大規模的種植農作物，他們利用當地的原住民來生產這些作物，除了能夠自給自足以外，也將這些產品作為獲利的來源。

而當耶穌會發現了瑪黛茶樹具有相當大的商業潛力之後，在 1650 ~ 1670年代成功的以人工種植瑪黛茶樹。

When Europeans arrived in the Parana-Paraguay there was no existing market for yerba mate beyond the local region. With the domestication of the plant as a plantation crop the Jesuits also contributed to the creation of a commercial market for it.

By 1700 the drink was popular throughout the Andes and the Rio de la Plata. As with cacao, yerba mate was developed as a plantation crop to serve a consumer market within the colonies, rather than for shipment to Europe. The product was shipped down the Parana-Paraguay system, then either to Santa Fe, where it was hauled overland to Chile, Upper Peru, and Lima or continued by river to markets in Buenos Aires and Montevideo.

當歐洲人來到了巴拉那河流域時，當時除了這些產茶地區以外，瑪黛茶並沒有擴展到其他範圍。

但隨著耶穌會成功的種植了瑪黛茶樹之後，這個經濟作物便幫助了整個南美洲商業市場的建立。

到西元 1700年代，在整個安第斯山脈和拉普拉塔河最流行的飲料就是瑪黛茶。當時的瑪黛茶的主要市場不是在歐洲，而是在南美的殖民地。

瑪黛茶產製後被運到巴拉那河流域，到聖菲再沿著陸路轉運到智利，秘魯，和利馬，沿著水路到阿根廷的布宜諾斯愛麗斯和烏拉圭的蒙德維的亞。

Yerba mate was never introduced to the European market--perhaps because it only gained commercial prominence in Spanish America after 1700, long after tea, coffee and cacao had become available in Europe. The expulsion of the Jesuits from the Spanish colonies in 1767 ended the cultivation of yerba mate on the mission plantations.

The European Enlightenment criticism of the Jesuits that led to their expulsion was in itself partly based on their successful plantation economies worldwide. When they were expelled from all Spanish dominions their missions on the Parana-Paraguay were abandoned. This caused huge changes in yerba mate production, as the missions were transferred into royal and private hands. Massive exploitation and near-slavery of the local Guarani population led to their abandonment of the missions, and the temporary end of yerba mate as a plantation crop.

瑪黛茶在當時並沒有被引進至歐洲市場，也許是因為直到 1700年代之後才開始在拉丁美洲獲得了顯著的商業利益，遠遠落後於茶，咖啡，和可可在歐洲市場上的價值。

在 1767年，隨著耶穌會被驅逐出西班牙殖民地後，瑪黛茶的人工耕種事業也跟著結束。歐洲啟蒙運動關於耶穌會的評論，他們被驅逐的部分原因也就是因為成功的在全世界推展了他們的農作物經濟。

當耶穌會被西班牙人驅走之後，在巴拉那河流域的瑪黛茶種植計畫也被廢棄了。這樣的改變造成了瑪黛茶市場的巨大變化，這些計畫被轉移到皇家和私人的手中。

但是因為大規模的開發和奴役瓜拉尼人的事件，導致了這個計畫的結束，並且暫時停止了繼續人工種植瑪黛茶樹。

It was fairly simple for commercial growers to transplant cacao and coffee to new plantations, but yerba mate proved to be a finicky crop. Spaniards apart from the Jesuits had little success in growing it, so production after the Jesuit expulsion came largely from the harvest of wild stands in Paraguay.

The town of Concepcion, founded in 1773, became the northern mate port, with land access to the stands of wild plants in the hinterland. Yerba mate was the only caffeine crop ever harvested commercially from wild stands in large quantities. Harvesting of the plant was a speculative enterprise, with Indian debt peons spending months in the forest harvesting, drying and bailing the crop. Many members of these work parties died.

瑪黛茶樹是一種相當難以種植的作物。對於當地的農民而言，耕種可可和咖啡就容易了許多。

西班牙人中除了耶穌會之外，很少有人能夠成功的將瑪黛茶樹移植。所以當耶穌會被趕走之後，瑪黛茶的主要來源便移往了巴拉圭的野生叢林中。

建造於 1773 年康塞普西翁鎮， 成為了北方瑪黛茶的交易港口，也是進入叢林產地的一個重要門戶。（到今天這個城鎮仍舊盛產著瑪黛茶）

瑪黛茶是當時唯一的一種大規模藉由野生茶樹所採集的咖啡因作物。

(另一個文章是 1783年，這裡的 Concepcion town 是在阿根廷，不是前陣子大地震的智利 Concepcion City。）

採收野生瑪黛茶是一種高風險的事業，因為它必須要耗費掉相當多的時間和人力，為了採收和處理這些茶葉，被雇用(被奴役)的印地安人必須在森林中呆上數個月，以致於相當多的人因而死亡。

The crop was sold regionally in South America, never gaining European markets. The Bourbon reforms massively increased the volume of the yerba mate trade in South America, as it did with the cacao trade from the Guayas region. The creation of the Viceroyalty of Rio de la Plata in 1776 meant that the merchants of Buenos Aires took control of both the yerba mate production zones in Paraguay, and one of the major consumer markets, in Alto Peru. Free trade and tax reforms in 1778 and 1780 made exports far more profitable.

瑪黛茶主要都在南美地區銷售，一直沒有進入過歐洲市場。十八世紀的 The Bourbon reforms 讓南美洲瑪黛茶的交易量大幅的增加，就如同對於 Guayas 地區的可可一樣。

(The Bourbon reforms 波旁改革 http://www.bookrags.com/wiki/Bourbon_Reforms 在十八世紀西班牙的政經改革，這個影響也遠至中南美洲西班牙的殖民地。
拉丁美洲的歷史中，Bourbon Reforms 造成的影響可以參考這篇http://www.emayzine.com/lectures/bourbo~1.htm ）

1776年在拉普拉塔河建立了總督轄區，這意謂著在布宜諾斯艾利斯（阿根廷）的商人控制了巴拉圭的瑪黛茶產地以及位於秘魯高地的廣大消費市場。

在1778年和1780年間，因為自由貿易和稅收改革使得出口更為有利可圖。

By the 1770s yerba mate was a popular social drink throughout the Andes, served at all hours of the day. The tea (or yerba) was traditionally drunk from a gourd (or mate), sipped through a straw known as a bombilla. By the 1770s this market had penetrated as far north as Cuenca, where the traditional gourd with silver straw began to appear on elite tables in this tertiary northern Andean city. Several examples of mate gourds mounted in silver with a silver straw have been encountered in late eighteenth century inventories from Cuenca.

在1770年代，整個安第斯山脈周邊的世界，瑪黛茶成為最流行的茶飲，在每天的任何時間都可以看見它的蹤跡。

到了1770 瑪黛茶市場的擴展，已經遠至北部厄瓜多爾的昆卡，在那個北方的安地斯城市，銀製的吸管和傳統的葫蘆杯已經出現在上流社會的場合中。

在這18世紀末的時代，在昆卡這個城市，出現了一些銀飾葫蘆杯和銀製吸管的樣品。

（安地斯山脈是地球上最長的山脈，在南美洲的西邊，範圍從巴拿馬到智利。）

There was a female association with this form of Andean consumption, a contemporary observer stating that "... there is no house, rich or poor, where there is nor always mate on the table, and it is nothing short of amazing to see the luxury spent by women on mate utensils."

在當時，出現了一個由女性組成的一種安地斯流的協會，當代觀察家指出，“...無論有沒有房子，不論貧富，只要瑪黛茶杯一直在桌子上，一定有機會能看到願意花上大把的金錢在這些瑪黛茶具上的女人。“

（在當時，瑪黛茶具變成一種精品，而不只是工具而已。）

The gendered nature of the consumption of caffeine drinks in the early modern world has not been extensively studied outside Europe, but in the case of yerba mate in the Andes the association is with female, and domestic, consumption.

除了歐洲以外的地區，對於性別跟咖啡因飲料的關連，在近代並沒有被廣泛的研究。然而這種安地斯流的聚會，主要都是當地的女性為主。

Yerba mate thus provides us with an example of a caffeine beverage crop with a unique historical trajectory. Developed as a plantation crop by the Jesuits to supply a South American market, it reverted to a system of commercial harvesting of wild plants after the Jesuit expulsion.

瑪黛茶的發展過程，在歷史刻下了一種特殊的文化和軌跡。

耶穌會成功的移植栽種了瑪黛茶樹，大量生產足夠的茶葉來供應南美的市場。而隨著耶穌會的被驅逐，瑪黛茶產業又回到了開採野生叢林的時代。

The difficult transplantation of the wild plants meant that domestic plantations were not easily founded, and the wild plant harvest remained important for much of the commercial history of yerba mate. This situation continued until the 1890s, when large yerba mate plantations were successfully developed in the southern Mato Grosso to serve the modern regional market.

難以移植的瑪黛茶樹意謂著要建立人工栽植的茶園並不容易，這也使得野生茶樹對於它的商業進程非常重要。

這個狀態只有持續到了 1890年代後就結束了，大量的瑪黛茶樹被成功的移植到馬托格羅索（巴西的一個州）之後，人工栽植的瑪黛茶便又重新開始供應了南美洲的市場。

英文文章來源 http://www.yerba-mate.com/yerba_mate_history.htm

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