2010年6月5日 星期六

[0057] 瑪黛茶由來的歷史故事 (下)


每翻完一篇文章,總是又會帶出許多未知的文章,也許這些瑪黛茶由來的故事對於我們來說並不重要,但是知道瞭解這個地球上發生過的故事,也未嘗不是好事,畢竟幻想出來的阿凡達故事,都看得這麼開心了。

日落的黃昏,總是會帶出金黃色的光芒,不知道這暫停的一瞬間,能不能滿足無盡的慾望。
CC 授權圖片 by vibrant_art
Source:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vibrant_art/3308296896/

(為了文章的通順,所以沒有逐字翻譯。)

Informed about its supposed virtues and magical origins the confirmed the indisputable effect it had on their physical welfare. The surprising renewal of body and spirit brought by the native decoction but not only restored their health but inflamed their commercial instincts – and an industry was soon born.

好客的瓜拉尼人告訴了這些來自遠方的西班牙探險家們有關瑪黛茶的一切,包括它的好處,還有背後那些神秘又美麗的傳說。

而瑪黛茶最神奇的功效是在於它不只能回復身體的能量,更能洗滌靈魂的疲憊。

這一個從天然植物所製成的原生茶湯,不僅補充了這些西班牙人足夠的能量,更點燃了他們心中的商業本能,於是,一個全新的瑪黛茶產業便從此開展。

Two centuries later, the Argentine gauchos of the great Pampean plains and the effete oligarchs of Buenos Aires would share the daily habit of drinking mate with thousands of Paraguayans, Uruguayans, Brazilians, Bolivians, and people as far north as Peru.

兩個世紀後,從住在彭巴草原上的阿根廷高喬人,到住在布宜諾斯愛麗斯的政客,所有的人已經將飲用瑪黛茶視為生活習慣的一環。

就如同千百萬的巴拉圭人,烏拉圭人,巴西人,玻利維雅人,甚至遠到秘魯的人們,瑪黛茶已經變成了生活中不可或缺的茶飲。

(高喬人是指住在彭巴草原的早期歐洲移民,他們擁有自己的特殊文化跟特色。)

By the end of the 20th century, the Guaraní herb would be cultivated for worldwide consumption by a $400 million agricultural industry producing more than 300,000 tons of the processed plant every year.

到20世紀底,瑪黛茶 - 瓜拉尼人的藥草 - 的全球消費量已達到 4億美元,每年的生產超過 30萬噸。

A Vilified, and Vindicated, Brew Even though yerba mate is relatively unknown in the United States, people throughout South America, Europe, and the Middle-East have long appreciated its healthy attributes and epicurean appeal.

雖然瑪黛茶在美國的知名度相對而言並不高(這篇文章是在1999年),但是南美洲,歐洲,甚至是中東地區,早已經瞭解瑪黛茶對於健康的幫助,以及它特有的天然滋味。

A letter written in 1628 by the Jesuit priest Nicaolás del Techo sheds light on the health benefits being touted centuries ago.

在西元1628年,有個耶穌會教士 Nicaolás del Techo 寫了一封信,信中揭示了瑪黛茶對於健康的好處。而這封信在數百年前便成為了一個行銷工具。

“Too many virtues are attributed to the herb,” he complained. “It acts as a soporific at the same time as it stimulates; calms the appetite at the same time it aids digestion.

『瑪黛茶實在是有太多的優點,』他抱怨著說, 『它竟然可以在安定情緒的同時也達到刺激精神的效果。不僅如此,它還可以抑制食慾又幫助消化。

It restores strength, brings happiness, and cures many diseases. All I see is that those who develop the habit can’t seem to get along without it.”

『它能恢復力量,帶來幸福的感覺,並治愈許多疾病。我所看到的是,誰一旦喜愛上瑪黛茶,似乎無法再離開它。』

Considering its mythical origin and seemingly magical properties, the early Jesuits’ mistrust of this powerful Guaraní herb was understandable.

考慮到瑪黛茶神秘的起源和神奇的特性,早期的耶穌會對於瓜拉尼藥草的強烈不信任感,是可以預期的。。

(事實上早期的耶穌會對於瑪黛茶產業的發展有非常大的影響,之後會提到這兩者之間緊密的關係。)

They voiced opposition to its use, deeming it a “demonic” pagan beverage given to the “tribal witches” by Tupá – none other than Lucifer himself.

耶穌會強烈表示反對人們使用瑪黛茶,認為它是“魔鬼”異教徒所給予的飲料。

他們認為瓜拉尼人的神靈 Tupá 就是魔鬼撒旦。

(這樣類似的故事過程其實在很多電影都有演過。)

They forbade its consumption in their territories and decreed the worst of all punishments for those who disobeyed, excommunication.

耶穌會禁止在其領土上所有瑪黛茶的飲用與消費行為,並且頒布的違反者的懲罰條文。誰不服從,就處罰。

This had a disastrous effect, because the use of mate had become so widespread that the church found itself confronting the possibility of losing almost all the faithful.

這條法令卻造成了災難性的影響,因為飲用瑪黛茶已經變得如此普遍,教堂發現自己將會面臨到失去所有信徒的窘境。
In spite of the harsh decree, people continued sipping their favorite beverage. To make matters worse, a Dominican priest branded the herb an aphrodisiac.
儘管禁止的法令被頒佈,但是人民繼續喝著自己喜愛的飲料。

結果整件事情變的更糟糕的狀況發生了,一個多米尼加的神父,將瑪黛茶妖魔化為春藥。

Contrary to his intentions, this caused the use of mate to spread like Viagra, until it reached a level of nearly 345 kilos per person every day!

原本他希望大家不要飲用瑪黛茶,沒想到卻出現了反效果。

他讓瑪黛茶傳播的速度就像威而剛的出現一樣,直到每人每天的平均消耗達到了將近 345 公斤的水準!

This explosion in popularity marked, unfortunately, the beginning of a sad chapter in mate’s history.

這爆炸性的傳播在歷史上留下了記錄,但是不幸的是,同時也帶來了瑪黛茶歷史故事中最為悲慘的一章。

As consumption spread throughout South America, a mate gold-fever resulted in the virtual enslavement of thousands of Guaraní Indians, exploited by Spanish encomenderos (contractors) in the most brutal fashion.

由於整個南美洲的廣大消費市場,瑪黛茶,這個綠色黃金熱導致成千上萬的瓜拉尼印第安人被奴役,被欺凌,被剝削。

西班牙的瑪黛茶承包商使用了最野蠻的方式壓榨了瓜拉尼人。

The Guaraní were forced to open paths through the rainforest with machete blows from the Paraguayan capital of Asunción to the heart of the mate groves in Guairá Marazón, Iraí, and Alto Uruguay.


瓜拉尼人被迫開鑿了穿過雨林的捷徑,他們使用大砍刀一路的從『巴拉圭』首都『亞松森』開路到瑪黛茶的主產地 『Marazón, Iraí, and Alto Uruguay』。

These paths were watered by the sweat and blood of thousands of aborigines, and paved with their bones. In the annals of New World exploitation no single industry brutalized its labor force more than those first encomenderos of yerba mate.

這些捷徑的路面是由百千萬瓜拉尼原住民的汗水和血水所澆灌,並且由他們的屍骨所鋪成。

在新世界的開發歷史中,沒有任何一段原住民奴役史會比這些瓜拉尼印地安人更為悲慘。

(之後的文章也會提到瓜拉尼人的介紹。)

For their part, the Jesuits by now had realized the failure of their attempts to discourage mate , and began to embrace it instead.

此時對耶穌會來說,他們已經意識到自己對於瑪黛茶無知而造成的失敗,進而開始接受接受它。

They sanitized its pagan origin by substituting Santo Tomé (Saint Thomas) for Tupá in the myth of its inception, and became so closely associated with the drink that many still know the plant as yerba missionera, the missionary herb.

耶穌會為了自圓其說,消滅了原本瑪黛茶異教的起源,以 Santo Tomé(聖湯馬斯)代替了 Tupá ,創造了一個基督教下的神話來源。

於是之後原本瓜拉尼人的 Caá - Yerba Mate 瑪黛茶成為了傳教士的 Yerba Missionera 草本植物。

Happily, their change of heart helped attenuate, somewhat, the plight of the Guaraní.

故事的最後,由於耶穌會改變了對於瑪黛茶的看法,以致於在一定程度上幫助了陷入困境的瓜拉尼印地安人。

(最後這段原本不想翻,因為完全是屁話,但是後來想想,還是翻出來好了。)

-Dr Myrtha Elba Ruiz de Pagés and Fernando Pagés

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